Dior’s collections have become synonymous with pieces that look to the future but pay homage to the brand’s historic heritage, so it came as no surprise that creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, once again, roused her audience with distinctive yet innovative designs.
While searching through the House’s archives, the director came upon a map of Paris that was printed on a vintage 1950s Dior scarf. This became the first influence towards the collection. Her interest in this map guided her further afar towards the Tuileries Garden and to the Italian Garden of Catherine de’ Medici. The renowned Italian-born queen of France “Catherine de Medici” – who married King Henry II – was known to be an extremely powerful woman with an enigmatic presence that revolutionized fashion through the introduction of corsets, lingerie and heels. Maria Grazia Chiuri, impressed by de Medici’s elaborate style, felt a strong connection with Catherine as they were both Italian and lived in France. It is no wonder that Medici was a source of inspiration for the Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
The show took place in the Tuileries Garden with a stage set featuring a castle grotto formation which was the perfect backdrop for the presentation. Inside the castle, the dancers, in perfect harmony, produced a striking performance. Simultaneously, models walked down the runway with reimagined fashions from the Medici era. Silhouettes were reinterpreted through scrumptious Baroque-Goth style with updates focused on the corset giving it a quasi-geometric shape that framed the bust. Bralettes with twisted ribbons, long voluminous skirts with stylish architectural cinched corsets and billowy gowns. Also presented were crinolines, shorts and oversized trench coats while raffia coats were adorned with floral and bird motifs.
There were also floral lace embroidered prints in sheer cotton. Map prints and embroidered raffia complemented a neutral color palette of black, white, beige and cream hues letting fabrics, shapes, and cuts speak for themselves offering a cool fresh modern style where the different moods portrayed a perfect blending of the Dior’s savoir-faire garments.
Text By Suna Ahmed
