Fashion in Tunisia has always been an important part of the culture and country’s social life. Designer Kaouther Berenger of Jade Couture inspiration derives from the multiple civilizations and dynasties that had settled in Tunisia throughout history.
Travelling back in time, she revisits the ancient traditions and customs. Today she creates made-to-measure or bespoke clothing paying close attention to detail, finesse and craftsmanship. For Kaouther, it is important that her clients feel confident and comfortable wearing a Jade Couture dress.
Al Sharkiah magazine sat down with Kaouther to speak about her philosophy and goals as a woman designer in Tunisia.
What is your overall approach to design and the underlying emotions that lay behind your latest collection?
What inspires me the most about design is the opportunity to experience, with my personal relationships, the richness of my Tunisian heritage, the mixture of the past and present influences. Embroidering is like a therapy for me. It is an artistic language that goes beyond a simple motif. One of my happiest moments is whenever I can follow the embroidery process step by step until I see the transformation from a blank canvas to the finished embroidered motif.
When beginning a collection, how do you infuse your inspirations into your design?
The world of fashion can convoy powerful messages on important topics. Fashion for me isn’t just about a dress but is furthermore a vision and a message to fight for a better future. I am a feminist rebel who carries an unconditional love for life and a better future. I love to incorporate ethnic/ oriental details with couture techniques.
What is your opinion of Arab women designers who are taking the fashion industry by storm?
I am in total admiration right now for the explosion of creativity by the Arab woman who is now proving to the world exactly what she is capable of, and I have met many extremely talented women creators who are able to fight with a single weapon: ART.
How has the Covid-19 crisis affected the fashion industry?
Covid–19 has largely affected the fashion industry. However, this crisis could also be an opportunity to rethink the situation. The pandemic has made obvious the negative sides of the fast fashion industry and has made fashion houses aware it was now crucial they focus on the authenticity of their products, as well as on sustainability and creativity. This unique set of circumstances might hopefully bring about the positive changes in the fashion industry that have been needed for years.
And what are you views on sustainable fashion?
There is simply no alternative for fashion than to become sustainable. It is obvious, in view of the global situation, that we now need to rethink our way of consumption, definitely go for eco-responsible materials and that we drastically reduce over-consumption in order to limit waste.
How can a designer support sustainability in a creative way?
There are many different ways of supporting sustainability, but since I am originally from the South of Tunisia, I strive to create employment opportunities for rural women who live out there. As a brand, I believe we have a social responsibility to help these women to become autonomous and develop skills that can directly contribute to their independence.
Thank you Kaouther Berenger for telling us your thoughts, it was a pleasure and a privilege to hear from a woman designer who does the pioneer work that you do in the Arab world!
Text by Suna Ahmed
Stylist and Art direction Suna Moya
Photographer Bayrem Ben Mrad
Location Dar Ben Gacem
Make up and Hair Nihel Ben Sedrine
Models Sarra Nasra and Najeh Bem Youssef
Location Dar Ben Gacem
Sunglasses Ghost Optique Tunisa
